Wednesday, August 15, 2012

How do you solve a problem like María?

So I have now spent approximately three weeks in Bogotá and have eventually started to feel settled. Having lived in Beijing, a city with over 20 million inhabitants, I really didn’t expect to feel so claustrophobic in Bogotá, a city with only 7-8 million people. Nonetheless, this city seems massive and sprawling. Despite having been here close to a month, I am still only getting to grips with the area I live and work in, and outside that my knowledge of other barrios such as las Aguas, la Candelaria, Chapinero, la Macarena and la Zona Rosa is extremely limited.

My first few weeks here have felt like a whirlwind, and whilst it seems like only yesterday that I was saying goodbye to my family at Dublin airport, I kind of feel like I have been living here for a lifetime. Within the first week of being here, I managed to find a room in a lovely house in Teusaquillo, a quiet residential neighbourhood situated near the Universidad Nacional and the parkway, a tree-lined avenida with an array of cafes, restaurants, bars, theatres and museums. Choosing where to live in a foreign city is never an easy thing to do. I have found that there is only so much you can tell from an advertisement or a website and you certainly don’t want to feel or look like the only ‘gringo’ in the neighbourhood, especially in certain parts of Bogotá.

There is to some degree a certain bohemian population in Teusaquillo, and life seems a little slower and more relaxed here than in some other parts of the city. Living with Colombian, Argentinian, French, English/Iraqi, American and Australian housemates…there really is no excuse but to put my degree to use and speak English as little as possible. We all speak good Spanish and in some ways, whilst it is hard to come home and force myself to speak Spanish after work, it really pays off to take the time and put in the effort to speak the language of the country I am living in. I have also found that beer, wine, rum and aguardiente also have been known to increase confidence and fluency in speaking foreign languages.

I am thoroughly enjoying my new job however, not having a tutor or any real point of contact has been difficult to say the least over the past few weeks. It has even been upsetting to a point hearing about the treatment of other British Council people being taken on trips out of the city, or out for coffee or lunch and being offered cheap accommodation whilst I have essentially been dropped in a city and told to fend for myself. Nonetheless, being a grumpy little bitch never solved anyone’s problems and the key to finding my feet in Bogotá was to be proactive despite my lack of support from work.

Some of you might be wondering what I am actually talking about. Essentially, on my first day of work in which I was meant to be collected from a hotel by my tutor, María and taken to the university, introduced to the staff and teaching cohort, offered accommodation and introduced to my timetable etc., I was in fact not picked up for various hours whilst I had to make many phone calls to the university and the British Council both who were as equally confused as me as to what were the plans for the day. I was also informed that María was no longer my tutor and that in fact no one really knew if I had one.

About 4 hours of sitting around after everyone else was picked up by lovely looking, friendly, well-dressed Colombians I was eventually picked up by a man who introduced himself as Freddy, Freddy Kruger…not the kind of humour I was really wanting or appreciated at this time of the day. Of course Freddy did not actually know what was meant to happen after he picked me up and again various phone calls in broken English and Spanish were made and I was escorted off to La Universidad Nacional. On arrival, I had a conversation (which felt more like an intense interview) in Spanish with the Director of the School of Modern Languages and I was told that they were putting me in a hotel for a few nights until I could move into my apartment. ‘Thank goodness!’ I thought and, for once, all at the Nacional started to seem a little more positive…

HOWEVER, two days later, on leaving the hotel to go organise my Cedula (The ID, allowing you to reside within Colombia) I was informed by the reception of the hotel that I had to check out in 15 minutes and that the Nacional were only paying for two nights’ accommodation and after that I would have to pay a small fortune myself per night. So after a day of sorting out my Cedula (a bureaucratic, slow and tiresome process only to be rivalled by that of setting up a bank account/registering at a university in China) I returned to the hotel to pick up my life in a suitcase and find a hostel for the night, since I could not move in to my new house until the next day!!!

The next morning I moved into my new house and have never been so glad to have my own place. Thankfully, also that was the end (to some extent) of the problems at work. I still have no tutor and no one really knows who has responsibility over me. However, I understand that to some extent, this kind of problem is typical of South America. Everything here seems to move much slower here and people take a much more relaxed attitude to things than in the UK…ok that’s my Nacional rant over!

On the other side, general life in Colombia is going well. Most of my life revolves around food, mainly empanadas and other delicious snacks of the street. I enjoy attempting to salsa, dance like Colombians and going to food festivals at the weekend. Eating has become almost a hobby if mine, due to its cheapness. However I have now found a gym near my house and I’ve decided that enough is enough and it's time for my empanada belly to say bye bye. So anyway, I feel like all I have done is complain in this instalment and that I’m being a bit Carrie Bradshaw about the whole situation right now! I promise to have good things to say in the next update. Hasta pronto chicos xxx

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

So, this is my first ever blog. Despite the fact that I have spent time abroad on more than one occasion, I felt that now more than ever was a good time to keep a blog. So after having graduated with a degree in French, Spanish and Mandarin Chinese from the University of Newcastle Upon Tyne and completing my PGCE at the University of Sheffield, I felt that it was about time that I fulfilled my dream of working in South America in accepting a job with the British Council in Bogotá Colombia...

Why Colombia? Well, essentially Colombia is a country which has always interested me, despite it's poor international reputation. Sharing it's borders with Brazil, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru and Panama, Colombia is an ethnically diverse country with coastlines both in the pacific ocean and the carribean sea. It is one of the world's leading producers of coffee and can be divided into 5 main regions as per the climate and geography of this place. (the Pacific, Andes, Amazon, Eastern Plains and the Caribbean.) Colombia is also the birthplace of Shakira, Juanes and Carlos Vives, Gabriel Garcia Marquez (Nobel Prize for Literature) and Elkin Patarroyo (Nobel prize for science after discovering the vaccine for Malaria)

Bogotá, the capital and my home for the next year (at least) is the largest and most populated city in Colombia and due to it's altitude ranks the third highest city in the world, after La Paz (Bolivia) and Quito (Ecuador)

Unfortunately, Bogotá may not have the best international reputation, and I have to admit that I did think twice about accepting the job. According to an annual 'Country RepTrack poll' Colombia scored the lowest of all Latin American countries in terms of safety. Furthermore, Colombia’s reputation ranks just below Angola and higher than only Nigeria, Pakistan, Iran and Iraq. Due to a history of corruption, civil war, drug violence, kidnapping, guerrilla warefare, landmines, paramilitary groups (mainly FARC) and a high murder rate, it is understandable that Colombia may not, at first sight seem like the best country to chose to live and work in.

I have always been a fan of all things Iberian, ever since I was in school and coming to South America has always been something that I have wanted to do. Thankfully, Colombia's reputation is changing fast and whilst yes, kidnappings and daily mugging are a daily threat, the majority of Colombians I have met have been lovely and so eager to help and welcome you to their country. More recently, the Colombian government and tourism industry have taken the following attitude:

'La pasión de los Colombianos hace que el único riesgo que corre un extranjero cuando pisa esta tierra es que se quiera quedar.'

Or simpy, the passion of the Colombian people is that the only risk a foreigner runs in stepping onto this land is that of staying' (Excuse the terrible translation, its been a while since I graduated!)

Until a few years ago, people travelling in South America would have avoided Colombia at all costs. However, those who have spent any amount of time here will tell you what a wonderful country it is and how wonderful the people are who live here. Essentially, drugs (primarily cocaine) and the violence that has sparked from it has ruined this country's international reputation. However, there is so much more to this politically, culturally and ethnically rich and diverse country than that which first meets the eye.

Basically, I am pretty excited yet terrified about the near future and my new life in Bogotá! Keep reading if you want for more updates from this pretty amazing country!

Besitos xx